I’m thinking of replacing the barrel on my Springfield 1911 — or at least getting a backup — because it has occurred to me that after 30,000 or so rounds fired through it, it may be a prudent move.
My problem is that I don’t have the foggiest clue which barrel would be the best. (And yes, I know that I might need a gunsmith’s services to “tweak” it into a proper fit, that’s no big deal.)
What I do know is that the more expensive barrels are often not worth the extra money, in that they’re not necessarily that much better than a plain-Jane model. And for obvious reasons, cost is important because I’m not going to be participating in IPSC or IDPA competitions anyway. I do insist on reliability, however, for obvious reasons.
Or should I just contact Springfield for a replacement?
All experiences in this endeavor will be welcome.
Update: just about everyone has recommended an OEM barrel (i.e. Springfield, in this case), so it’s thither I shall be going.
Thankee, everyone.
I’m no gunsmith, but on the 1911 forums, Springfield barrels are just fine. There are the tweakers (guilty) who have to replace lots of parts, but I’ve stuck to the small parts. Like you, I don’t compete. I’d just order one from Springfield.
They used to have a custom shop, you could have them fit the barrel for you, but I’m not sure they do that kind of work now. En email will clear that up. I’m also not sure 30,000 rounds is all that high for a 1911. I’ll put my OCD to work on that question. 😂
Do you keep extra springs on hand? I have a S&W SW1911 and I’d like to keep an extra recoil spring on hand but I don’t know which poundage to get.
I dunno about replacing the barrel. Maybe Wilson Combat
WIlson Combat makes high end stuff, however any parts from them, while great, will lighten up Kim’s wallet by a LOT!
I worked in the gun biz for about seven years. WARNING Long rant / informational diatribe below
In terms of barrels – drop in is a term used very loosely. Typically, in most cases OEM (Original Equipment Manufacturer) barrels were truly drop in.
With aftermarket barrels, it was a shit shoot. Sometimes barrels dropped in, sometimes barrels needed some fitting.
Taking this a step further, barrels for handguns have a twist rate for the rifling. OEM barrels generally are going to shoot well in terms of both reliability (working well feeding and firing) all types of ammo and being reasonable accurate with all types of ammo (all weights within range and all types, wadcutter, hollow point, FMJ etc). So for example, a Glock 21 or a Smith & Wesson M&P 45 OEM barrel would shooting 185 grain to 230 grain, FMJ or Hollowpoint without issues and fairly accurately.
When you step into aftermarket, they might have a different twist rate, or a tighter chamber, or a different finish. Will it work with the model of gun you have? Maybe.
Will it work with not only the model, but the specific gun you have of that model, maybe again.
So diving down the rabbit hole more – ask yourself two questions among many
1 – Do I want truly drop in (that is I buy this barrel, put it into my gun, NO fitting, NO filing, NO testing different types of ammo)? If so, definitely go OEM.
2 – Do I want competition grade or better accuracy? Try an aftermarket barrel, and keep in mind you might have great luck with it dropping right in and eating any ammo like a fat guy eating at a buffet or you might be filing it a little or even visiting a gunsmith.
If this gun is mostly for self defense and range time – I would say go OEM.
Also – Some aftermarket companies are GREAT! Apex Tactical (Owner Scott Folk GREAT GUY) and Volquartsen custom (Owner Scott Volquartsen GREAT GUY) – make AWESOME products. There products are drop in or very close to drop in, but sometimes do require some small fitting or installation. They make AWESOME STUFF. And they both have GREAT Service.
There are many other aftermarket companies out there, too many to list and some I have tried and some I have only heard of.
Me personally, I want my guns to work, so I mostly go OEM OR I get select stuff from Apex or Volquartsen. (Volquartsen is the king for parts for Ruger 10/22 rifles).
Just keep the above in mind when selecting the parts.
On final thing – Glock and Smith & Wesson M&P and Springfield XD – all are modern polymer pistols. There is some play / looser tolerances that allow many but not all aftermarket parts to drop in, and yet still problems can happen if the part is off enough.
1911’s are a whole different ball game. Way tighter tolerances even on the loosest cheapest 1911 models. 1911 models usually require more fitting and finagling to get things to fit and work.
If you don’t want hassle, OEM is the way to go.
And even if you go OEM, TEST YOUR GUN once you change any part or parts out!
Oh and where to buy
Direct from manufacturer for some parts is available.
Brownells has awesome service for big box. Cabelas is ok
DO NOT BUY FROM MIDWAY USA. FUCK MIDWAY USA. Shitty company shitty service.
what’s the story with Midway? send via email if you prefer
I’ll say it here. I don’t mind
Midway multiple times has messed up orders on me
Many years ago I ordered an Oem barrel that was clearly used. They told me I should deal with the manufacturer. Ended up reversing my credit card charge after trying to work with them
A few years after that I ordered a part from Midway. They shipped it to a previous address I lived at.
I called and asked if they could send another. Nope they said it was my mistake.
Funny how they billed my credit card and the correct address for the cost of the item.
They said I typed in an incorrect address. Likely story. Me. Not their fault. They claim that I somehow typed my correct billing address but then typed an old address to hand the item shipped to. How fucking retarded are they to think that is a reasonable thing to say?
Many times I called emailed. They did nothing.
I emailed them over and over many times including Larry potted field their leader.
Eventually they said they would never do business with me again. Fine with me.
Midway sucks. I suggest others stay away too. Fuck midway. I wouldn’t give them a penny for anything every again.
An Awesome retailer is brownells. Great place to deal with.
Volqaurtsen is awesome to deal with
I’ve had good luck with cabelas too.
I wouldn’t think 30k rounds thru a .45 auto is all that much. Standard 45 ammo is loaded to 21,000 psi which is relatively mild. Velocities are low. I could see changing out bushing, springs, etc. But the barrel should last forever.
It’s not like high velocity rifles where chamber pressures are 2x to 3x higher and velocities at 3000 fps or better. I can see rapid barrel wear in that regard.
That being the case, I’d go OEM if possible. I’ve swapped barrels back and forth between Colt, Springfield, and RIA and all were drop-in with no fitting and perfect (or as perfect as with original barrel) as long as I stuck to 230 grain ball ammo. Obviously range time with your preferred defense ammo is recommended.
I used to shoot bowling pins with my compensated Springfield 1911, and I used hot handloads.
I broke the lug off my barrel. Entirely my fault.
After a couple years unsuccessfully looking for a gunsmith, I bit the bullet and sent the gun to Springfield. I knew it would be expensive. I included all the details in a letter with the gun.
They sent me a letter detailing the work done. Upgraded barrel to stainless due to no others in stock. Hand fitted. Test fired.
No charge. They covered it under warranty.
I’m sure things are different now, but I remain fond of Springfield’s customer service.
Springfield Armory customer service is EXCELLENT!
First – my only current Springfield product is a generation 1 XDS (Mini 9MM) I bought around 2017.
I REALLY like it.
It is a little heavier and bigger than the current generation of micro 9MM (P365, Shield Plus, Hellcat), but the XDS still runs and I have NEVER had any issues at all with it.
A few years ago, I wanted an extra roll pin for the back strap (this is the generation of guns from when 2 sizes of backstraps was a thing). I called Springfield customer service up.
Springfield asked me Three questions, after I told them I wanted to buy an extra roll pin for the backstrap.
1 – What is your name
2 – What is the serial number off of the gun
3 – What is your address
The rep then said, Ok, it is on it’s way.
I asked how much, and the rep said, no charge, it will ship out shortly. Is there anything else I can help you with?
Springfield sent the item 2 day Fedex. Yes a cheap roll pin that probably is pennies to make, and probably retails for anywhere from a couple of bucks to 10 bucks im guessing, NO CHARGE and FEDEX 2 day shipping.
Previously I had ordered 2 extra recoil springs to have on hand in case I ever needed them (still running the original), I wish I had called instead of ordered off their website!
Anyways, Springfield service is EXCELLENT.
Ruger is another favorite of mine. I bought a new GP100 4 in blued gun around 2014 or so, the finish wasn’t so great in one spot. They sent me a label and I sent it back. Maybe not even 3 or 4 days later, a rep emailed me and asked me what I wanted, 1 – re finished 2 – a new gun 3 – a different gun 4 – refund. Rep had a number on the email.
I called and said, hey, ill take you up on a replacement, even though the gun functioned fine, I just wanted a better finish on a newly purchased gun. Rep then asked, OK, same gun? I said, there are options? She said, we have the 4 inch GP 100 in blue or stainless, which one would you like? I said, how much more for the stainless? She said, no upcharge, well get one out to you shortly, can you send us a copy of the dealer you want the new serial numbered gun sent to?
So, within maybe, 4 or 5 more days, my FFL called me and said there was a gun there for me to pickup. Total time was about a week and a half from gun sent to new replacement gun out to me.
I get the gun, and as I am fussy, there is a set of hogue rubber grips on with, the ones with NO finger grooves. I kinda liked the finger groove ones. So I call Ruger back, NO CHARGE they sent me a set of the ones with the finger grooves. Now I have the hogue over mold rubber grips times 2, one with finger grooves, one without. And later on at the range, I tried both, and ended up preferring the no finger groove ones, so the finger groove ones are a spare now.
Anyways, Ruger and Springfield have the ABSOLUTE BEST service in the gun business that I have seen. Both will kiss the customer’s ass.
Sig Sauer customer service eventually sorted out an issue with a P938 (JUNK) and a P238 (JUNK), and I ended up with a P229 9MM Nitron for the P938, and the P238 I sold and pocketed the cash.
Sig I found to be arrogent, and they took fucking forever to make things right. I sent the P938 back and forth 3 times, and it never ran right, then a new replacement 938 never ran at all (barrel hood wasn’t fitted correctly to slide) and then I called and said WTF, been like almost 4 months of back and forth with these piece of shit guns, wtf is going on. A manager said, pick any gun you like. I said, ok, Ill take a P229 or P226, either, which one is available sooner, P229 was going to be available in a few weeks he said, so I picked that
P229 is good to go. Classic line sigs are the best. Their customer service and their new guns (P320 and P365) are pieces of shit.
The BEST two companies for parts are hands down Apex Tactical and Volquartsen custom. While they don’t have parts for every last gun out there, if they have a part for a gun you have, and you want the best, these are the two companies to go with if you want something other than OEM.
Also, pick up and XD 45. Put a custom
Trigger in it if the stock trigger is too heavy.
It will run circles around your 1911 and won’t break anywhere near as easily.
IMO, having put 40k+ rounds through my Sig P245, barrels run forever.
They are also subject to just straight up inspection.
Next time to take the gun apart for cleaning, drop gauges in the chamber to check dimensions. https://www.pacifictoolandgauge.com/45-Automatic-ACP-SAAMICIP-Headspace-Gauges_p_114698.html
Take a good, long look at the lands and grooves, I’m sure the specs are somewhere and a suitable micrometer and calipers can be had for a couple of bucks.
P245. Old school Double Action / Single Action Sig. Classic line model that is no longer made. Kind of a smaller version of the P220. A coworker of mine a few jobs ago had one of these. Shot great.
Can’t beat a classic line sig and they run forever.
I have 90k rounds through my Colt Government model. It came with a competition grade barrel. I replaced the springs at 60k rounds. It could have gone longer. My 1911 is my preferred range gun.
I had a Bomar barrel installed in my Springfield Fully Loaded when the lug broke off at about 1000 rounds. Had a trigger job and the action smoothed at the same time. It became a safe queen, the Kimber was lighter and just as accurate for games or carry.
I concur with Teetotaler on both Springfield and Ruger. I believe Rob Latham used to run their custom shop. Not sure, but I think so.
1. After research, forget a new barrel. I know you don’t reload, and you’re not a hot load guy, so your barrel should last the rest of your life, and that of your son. You are unlikely to shoot it out. Unless it’s been ill maintained (which I would not believe in the DuToit household), rest easy about your barrel.
2. Springs. Saint JMB and the USA specified 16#, the 1911 forum nuts were all about the 18# for some reason, about 18 years ago, Nighthawk Custom shipped me a GRP Recon with a 17# spring. Good enough for me, I’ve used 17# Wolff springs, replaced every 2,000 rounds. They might go longer, but on a defensive gun, 2,000 rounds is good insurance and they are not expensive.
However, there’s a new kid in town and I’ve replaced all four of my 1911 springs with it. It’s the Wilson Combat flat wire spring. They say it will go 10,000 rounds in the marketing, but Bill Wilson thinks it might go indefinitely, a lifetime spring in other words. He didn’t think people would believe that, though so they say 10,000 rounds. Bill has 20,000 rounds on the flat wire spring in one of his guns and freely admits this so he’s not trying to hawk his springs unnecessarily. I like them.
Skip the barrel, don’t worry about it. Get a WC 17# flat wire spring. Comes with a new guide rod (GI length) included, $21. Toss the little blue buffer I think they’re just silly. Thank me later.
Or lay in 2-3 Wolff 17# springs. Not much of a savings, though, and replace them every 2,000-3,000 rounds in your defensive gun. I love the flat wires, though.
JC
I agree with the comments above, go with an OEM barrel. I would install it, test it, then decide which one to keep as a spare.
My one direct experience dates from my days back in the gun biz. I worked/managed a small indoor range/gun shop. I was around when they first built the place, and it was at least a decade later that I wound up working there. While I was there, one of the original range rental guns was a Springfield 1911A1. One day (around 2008) it began to short cycle, so I took it apart to inspect. Yup, barrel cracked, from the muzzle back about 3 inches. I have no idea what the round count was other than to say, A LOT. We shipped it back to Springfield and they fixed it, no charge.
Springfield has good service. Great company.
When I worked in the biz the 1911 was the gun that required the most maintenance and it was a pain in the ass to take apart.
The 1911 also was the model of gun that broke is some form or another the most.
Cracked barrel lugs, broken safety plunger tubes for manufacturers that didn’t have them machined as part of the frame (the ones staked on broke like
Clock work) broken magazine catch and springs, cracked grips, worn out and weak recoil springs and magazine springs, follower issues in the magazines. Many breakages took the gun down hard and made it unusable until it was repaired.
Nice trigger on a 1911. That’s about it that I can say nice about them.
While ugly, I can pickup a modern day plastic fantastic and shoot and abuse the living shit out of it and these cheap modern day guns held up better. And most things that broke on a modern plastic fantastic didn’t take the gun down hard. (Slide stop release. Plug at end of captured recoil spring popped off but gun still ran as the spring is still held in by the rest of the rod and the slide etc.
Revolvers to me are the very best with plastic fantastic stuff being a very close second.
For those that enjoy the 1911 I hope yours are robust. Nice guns but I personally can’t get over how delicate they seek to be overall.
You will probably get one from Springfield under warranty. But considering the price I would just get another 1911 and use the current as backup. Use it as your “truck gun”. That way if someone liberates it no big loss. Just read about how you will lose the gun to the popo if you use it. Since they will want it as “evidence”.
Forgot the link to the WC flat wire spring. Sorry.
https://wilsoncombat.com/recoil-spring-kit-flat-wire-45-acp-full-size-17lb.html