The Daily Mail’s Bel Mooney writes:
We took a rare holiday, on the River Danube, cruising from Passau to beautiful Budapest. It seemed amazing that in one week we could set foot in Germany, Austria, Slovakia and Hungary – flying visits, of course, but fascinating nonetheless.
Among many memories, two things stand out in my mind. First, near Linz in Austria (which Hitler considered his hometown) is Mauthausen Memorial site. This was one of the most brutal and severe of the Nazi concentration camps; prisoners suffered not only from malnutrition, overcrowding and constant abuse and beatings, but also from exceptionally hard labour.
We saw the terrible quarry where they were broken and killed, the gas chamber, and the heart-breaking ‘Room of Names’ honouring the thousands of dead: political enemies of the Nazis, Roma, homosexuals, Jehovah’s Witnesses and (of course) the Jews, who were treated with the worst brutality.
You might think that doesn’t sound like holiday fun, and you’d be correct. But we need to bear witness to what can happen in plain sight of ‘innocent’ communities all around. Extremism and collusion can happen all too easily within societies. Mauthausen made me weep and rage – the only possible response. I shall never forget it.
It’s happier to recall the national pride of guides in (especially) Bratislava and Budapest. We heard how students and workers rose up against the Soviet oppressors and how the end of Communism enabled Slovakia and Hungary to be reborn.
I loved their delight in their own culture, their wish to protect it, and the welcoming patriotism that made me suspect they were rather sorry for us tourists – born elsewhere. It was genuine, unforced and I couldn’t help but wish we had more of it here.
I had precisely the same reaction upon visiting Dachau, outside Munich — tears of rage and sadness, even though it came in the middle of an otherwise-idyllic vacation in Austria and southern Germany.
I think it behooves us, every time we travel abroad, to take a day off from the museums and bistros and rub our noses in the history of the place. Otherwise, we are just tourists and not travelers.


































